Brookes Restaurant

Oxford Brookes University
Gipsy Lane
Headington
Oxford, OX3 0PB

Date: Wednesday 26 October 2011

Every so often you strap upon a restaurant that completely takes you by surprise. A dear friend of mine waxed lyrical about Brookes Restaurant and suggested I book a table. I did try for my husband’s birthday but was then informed that they are only open at lunchtime during weekdays. As he works in London during the week this gem fell off our culinary radar. During our summer holiday this year we were both in the area at midday and made a booking, and subsequently revisited as often as we could. Why? Because this is one of those eateries that can literally blow the socks off you.

Their ethos is to incorporate the very best local and seasonal produce, including meat, sustainable fish, vegetables and fruit. I am a huge supporter of locally sourced produce so this immediately makes me sit up and take note. Please keep in mind that this is a teaching facility, hence the weekday, lunchtime servings.

Today was not our first visit and every single time we set foot in this well decorated, clean, professional environment, we have been met with smiles, courtesy and faultless attitude even on days when the students are manning the tables and when our personal attire couldn’t make the grade of slightly informal. The menu changes monthly and today we sampled the last of the menu for the autumnal month of October.

We were served by two very confident young ladies, Ffiona and Ellie, and for starters I chose warm roast beetroot with Oxford Isis cheese, mizuna leaves, baby chard and the most well placed crispy parsley, which I almost missed at first glance. I did not expect the cheese (as I don’t normally order dishes which contain cheese) and it complemented the beetroot perfectly. The subtle vinaigrette left the most tantalizing taste in my mouth. My husband ordered the confit salmon with land cress and capers. I was offered a bite of the most tender of salmon, which retained it distinctive colour, and truly enjoyed that morsel. To drink we had our habitual bottle of sparkling water and husband chose a shiraz to complement his choice of mains.

For main course I ordered the baked cod loin in a tomato and rosemary crust in a lentil and cabbage broth. Whoever came up with the idea to marry cod and lentils was on this occasion a genius as the flavours were sublime. I appreciated the generous bed of curly kale, which accompanied this superb dish. Husband chose the braised duck leg boulangere with autumn plums. I have never tasted a more tender duck leg and if I had to order all over again, I am not sure which main I would choose.

On this occasion I was well prepared for lunch and only had a light breakfast as I wanted to sample the whole menu. Normally we forego desserts as a two-course meal is sufficient. However on a previous occasion I had eyed the bramble mess from afar and am delighted that I did indeed save space to taste this non-traditional mess. The greatest part of the bramble mess was the natural yogurt surrounded by only a few tiny meringues and ample berries. As a dessert this is very subtle and thus not overpoweringly sweet, perfect after two great courses. My dining partner chose the chocolate bavarois with peanut butter shortbread and caramel. I thought he had lost the plot completely because on paper this sounds both substantial and unbearably sweet. Clearly it was neither. The flavours meshed perfectly and even though we both ordered a double espresso to round of this three-course meal it was only out of habit, not digestive necessity.

A two-course meal will set you back £12-95 and the three course choice £15-95.

We both agree that Brookes Restaurant is the best restaurant in Oxford (and we have sampled most restaurants in the city). The combination of well sourced local ingredients, the professional staff (despite most of them being young students), the setting and most of all, the unbeatable price. It is indeed a shame that this treasure is only open at lunchtime and that parking is a bother (do make sure that you book a space when you book a table).

For all that it offers I rate Brookes Restaurant 9/10.