The Trout

195 Godstow Road
Oxford, OX2 8PN

Date: Friday 7 October 2011

When I heard The Trout had changed the menu I could not resist the opportunity to sample the new offerings. I arrived after attending a 5-day Functional Medicine conference at The Hilton, Kensington, London where the menu was designed for optimal health and contained fish, chicken, tofu and legumes. As a South African I have beef and Springbok running in my genes and I was desperate for some red meat. You can imagine my state of mind when I realised that we had chosen ‘Fish Night’ to dine at The Trout.

Our reception was very warm and friendly and the newly lit fires very inviting. The venue is very big and yet at no point did I feel that our dining space was invaded by fellow diners. We made a quick detour to the bar where my husband ordered a dry Martini. The South African bar tender asked all the right questions and meticulously prepared an excellent classic Martini and poured me an Italian prosecco.

Our table was next to the crackling fire, which was just what I needed after misjudging the outside temperature difference between central London and Oxford by the river. Our waitress, an Australian named Toni, was very attentive and most efficient and brought us some sourdough bread with balsamic vinegar and olive oil. We did not demolish this offering as we had opted for a starter, the mezze platter to share. The toasted pitta bread was the perfect accompaniment for the taramasalata, hummus and tzatziki. The central salad of marrow, yellow pepper, egg plant (brinjal), tomato, rocket, artichoke and tapioca pearls in a pesto dressing was mouthwatering. The dish additionally came with the most sublime feta cheese I have ever sampled. Toni informed us that is was from France and perhaps not for sale for domestic use.

All my hunkering for steak disappeared completely when I sampled my main course, which was pan fried Monkfish tail, chili spiced couscous, lime marinated crayfish tails and orange crème fraiche. The couscous had a lovely bite to it and the orange crème fraiche blew me away.

My husband ordered the recommended Conga Eel steak roasted in garlic, sage and The Trout’s very own Harry Sparrow Cider. It was served with buttered apple crisps and home-made tomato jam. Superlatives escaped us both after tasting the Eel. Apparently it was the first time chef, Jason Curtis, has attempted this dish, and he would be wise to keep this one on the menu for as long as Conga Eel is available. We shared the green salad which was laden with olives, cucumber and leaves.

I am not much of an alcohol consumer so after the prosecco I stuck with plain water but husband enjoyed an excellent glass of South African chenin blanc with his main meal.

Even though the dessert menu would make most people’s knees weak, neither one of us could manage even an after dinner mint following this culinary feast we had enjoyed.

We both agreed that The Trout offers a very special dining experience of very high quality. In summer or on warmer days dining on the terrace adds another dimension to this special eatery. The added bonus is the ample free parking across the road.

As a nutritional therapist I look at food in a slightly different way most other people may. My main criteria for a well-balanced meal is the quantity of salad or vegetables that accompany any dish and the ratio between protein and carbohydrates. The starter had a generous serving of vegetables accompanying the protein options (taramasalata contains roe, hummus contains chickpeas, and tzatziki contains yogurt and cucumber), and the bread did not overwhelm the plate. Our main courses where fish protein feasts and hence the extra order of the green salad to offer balance. My couscous portion was spot on and the greens on top not only added aesthetic value but also additional greens, which the World Health Organisation (WHO) has highlighted as an essential part of our daily diet.

Clearly if either one of us were diagnosed celiac (gluten intolerant) or dairy sensitive some of the additions would have been unsuitable. However, as non-vegetarians with no food sensitivities our food options were suitable and most enjoyable.

My rating for The Trout is a resounding 9/10.